Monday, September 26, 2011

Monsoon Madness


Today I walked out of the International Programs Office to discover that basically a monsoon had hit campus. This morning I left my room and looked up at the blinding light and made a confident decision that there was no chance I would need my umbrella. Now, I trudge through the thick red mud which is flicked all up my legs by my flip flops- all the Ghanaians stare at my embarrassing appearance and chuckle to themselves- and I wonder why did I not bring an umbrella again? I swear I did not even hear the rain but the flooding of the drains that has overflowed into the streets means that it must have been some intense rain. Now for the recap of my past couple weeks…
Around two weeks ago, my three of my friends and I decided to go to the beach. We had our hearts set on trying out a new beach that should have only taken an hour and a half to get to by tro-tro. Instead, the adventure to Big Milly’s beach took around four hours and we only had a couple hours of sunlight there. But the story gets better. First, this beach resort is incredible! The beach was a white sand paradise where you could rent out a hammock or a camping tent for cheap to spend the night. Even better, the menus at one of the restaurants had desserts- apple pie, ice cream sundaes- sweets I had not dreamed of finding in Ghana. The two-story tiki bar had seating that gave you an incredible view of the Atlantic Ocean as well as the tropical mountains in the opposite direction. As the sun went down we decided to head back to Legon instead of staying the night. It happened to be just our luck that there was a tro-tro of Ghanaian guys and German girls heading back into the Accra area. Our ride back was pure entertainment- the Ghanaian guys would play American songs such as “Fresh Prince of Bel Air” and they knew all the words to Lil Wayne’s latest album. They liked us so much that they drove their tro-tro (which isn’t allowed on campus) through the security gates and straight up to our home base. Good deal.

In order to get to know us better, the head of our program, Dr. Rose Walls has set up a bunch of activities. Mostly, the outings revolve around food but some have gone to the beach or shopping etc. A couple of weeks ago, I went to a restaurant and the botanical gardens with my group. It was raining the whole time which made for some good memories. We ate a delicious lunch where two kittens kept distracting me from my meal. On our drive to the gardens we pulled off the road and looked at a resort that had a pool with an invisible edge that looked out into the tropical forests- it looked like a five star hotel in Hawaii! The botanical gardens were awesome. Basically, the gardens consist of a HUGE plot of land with plants that are indigenous to Ghana as well as some brought over from the Europeans. We got a tour of the land from a local Ghanaian. Some of the trees were just plain magnificent- there was one tree that was completely hollow on the inside due to a parasite and we were able to climb all the way to the top- definitely not something that would fly in the U.S. Our final stop before our arrival home was at some merchants in a small town. Apparently, the region was notorious for its wood carvings so I ended up buying a unique looking mask that is from the Asante region.
This past weekend I went to the National Museum in Accra where I looked at the exhibit on indigenous slavery. It was super interesting because they had all of the real shackles used to transport slaves from the interior to the coast. That night we had the International Students Durbar which was basically the University welcoming all of the international students. We all got dressed up and went to the Great Hall which is at the top of the hill in a beautiful courtyard. They provided us with a delicious traditional meal and entertainment- including fire dancers! All of the important members of the University were there to invite us to be a part of the Ghanaian culture. It has been really neat to see how welcoming Ghanaians are as well as how much they LOVE foreigners.
There are many artsy events on campus that I have been attending. First, my friend Marj is a super talented musician who was accepted into a band. I went to her outdoor performance at the Music Department where her band played Afro-jazz music…everyone was up dancing by the end. Last night I went to a dance performance. I love how all performances here are in outdoor theaters. The dances were absolutely incredible! The traditional Ghanaian dances are always entertaining but I got a huge kick when they played some American music, walked out with a boom box, and gave a hip-hop performance that got the crowd on their feet. Also, Ghanaians love their football (soccer). One dance piece was representative of a soccer game- pretty awesome. The best part was that most of the choreographers are teacher assistants in my dancing classes so it was cool to see their artistic abilities and technical skills at their finest.
School is officially in full swing. I had my first and last midterm this past week- fingers crossed that it went well! I started tutorials this week which is like class discussions. The best part is that my class discussions are held under a huge tree in the History department where we sit in plastic chairs and only two or three people show up. My favorite Teaching Assistant is Clifford, a charismatic guy who was born in Jamaica, received his Masters in the U.S. and is now working towards his doctorate at University of Ghana. He asked me what my favorite part was about Thanksgiving and when I said “turkey” he responded “Turkey tastes like cardboard. It is only good if you fry it!” My other tutorials are okay. I struggle to understand the other students and the TAs  often focus too much attention on me, constantly asking if I understand or they are always very curious about my opinion on one thing or another- it can be a little intimidating sometimes.
I started volleyball and tennis two weeks ago. Volleyball is at 5AM to 7:30AM and all the girls are super fun and jokesters. They love to call me “hittin’ Hidin”…they can’t seem to grasp that there is no “N” at the end of my name. The tennis team loves to mess with my head. They tell me practice is at one time, I show up at the courts and I call the captain, Nana, and he claims to be there too. One of the most valuable lessons I have learned here is that when a Ghanaian says “I am coming” that could honestly mean he or she will be arriving where you are supposed to meet in 6 hours or so. Basically, I am still working on figuring out what times tennis is ACTUALLY happening at.
The electricity has been on and off for the past couple days meaning it gets dark at 6PM and reading my book with a flashlight can only keep me entertained for so long. The water has officially been out for over two weeks…AND our water tanks ran out so we were showerless for quite some time. Hopefully this monsoon will get the water running again.
One more random story: The security guard who sits under our rooms, Uncle Lucas, is just like a big teddy bear. I have snuck peaks out of my room only to discover him feeding and speaking quietly to the two kittens that live by our building. I asked him the other day whether he has named them and he gave a sheepish smile and said “the girl is Julie and the boy is Solomon.” So cute!
Hope that is enough to satisfy you for a while, time to trek back to my room in the mud!

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Ethnocentrism: The Historical and Modern Impact on Ghana


It is not always fun and games here in Ghana. Below is the paper I had to write for orientation in order to receive my final grade in my Culture and Society class. I will buy anyone who actually finishes this a Ghanaian chocolate bar!

        Ethnocentrism, “the belief that one’s ethnic or culture group is superior,” is a belief system that was prevalent throughout the world historically and continues to dominate the ideology of individuals today (Lecture 7/30/2011). Specifically in Ghana, ethnocentrism has played a major role in the past as well as in modern times. Colonialism and the Atlantic Slave Trade serve as strong examples of the influence of ethnocentrism in Ghana’s history. The Eurocentric beliefs accompanying these practices inhibited development and continue to have debilitating effects in modern times. Today, Ghana, and Africa in general, persists to struggle against stereotypes and the connection commonly made between Westernization and development. The image of Ghana that pervaded my mind prior to my arrival in August, centered on the topics of diversity, safety, dress, and development, has been completely shattered by my experiences abroad. I have discovered that it is necessary to take an ethnorelative view of Ghana, in which the positives and negatives of a culture are respected, and to realize that in order to progress, the country must find its own solutions to contemporary problems based on what works for the diverse population.  
            One form of ethnocentrism that played a major role in Ghana’s history is Eurocentrism, or the belief in European superiority. This established belief in European supremacy led to the formation of misleading stereotypes, destabilization, and justification for the European colonization of Africa and the growth of the Atlantic Slave Trade. Travel accounts by European traders, missionaries, and explorers depicted Africa as a “dark continent” (Oyebade 9). Since Europeans were unable to understand the complexities of African societies from their outside perspective, they attributed what they knew from their own world to the newly explored continent. Europeans described the African people as primitive, barbaric, and inferior in their accounts. These biased observations were transported back to Europe and the Americas, spread amongst the general population, and widely accepted. Since Africans were perceived as subordinates, Europeans felt that it was their obligation to teach the non-white Africans how to behave like Europeans. This idea of civilizing Africans as “A White Man’s Burden” was exploited to justify European colonialism in Africa (Kipling 304). Further, these Eurocentric beliefs played a role in defending the dominance of the Atlantic Slave Trade. Europeans commonly dehumanized the African people in order to justify their mistreatment of slaves. The ethnocentric ideology that promoted the belief that Europeans were genetically superior people eased the slave master’s conscious and played a defining role in weakening the progress of Ghana. 
During the fifteenth century, Ghanaians established their first direct trading relations with the European nation of Portugal. The Portuguese were subsequently followed by the arrival of the Dutch, the English, and multiple other European powers. Ghana was deemed the Gold Coast because of the prevalence of gold in the region. Although the European traders continued to trade manufactured goods for raw materials and minerals, the emphasis of trade shifted towards the sale of human lives. The growth in the demand for slaves resulted in debilitating political, economical, and social effects for Ghana and the entirety of West Africa.  
 As a result of the high demand for slaves in the New World for agriculture, mining, and for mass production, Africa faced major changes demographically. At least thirteen million slaves were exported out of Africa between the 1440s to the 1860s and faced brutal conditions and exploitation (Inikori 391-392). According to Joseph Inikori (394), between 1700 and 1809, “two-thirds of the total exports were from West Africa (Senegal through Cameroon), and virtually all the rest from West Central Africa (Congo-Angola).” Slave owners preferred young, healthy slaves. Males were particularly targeted because of their strength and ability to excel at manual labor. Of the thirteen million slaves transported out of Africa, “36 percent of the exports were female and 64 percent male” and the bulk of the exports were “aged 15 to 30” (Inikori 392). West African societies were redefined by the loss of human resources which created a gender imbalance and disrupted economic growth and family life. Africa’s reliance on Europe’s cheap manufactured goods “discouraged rather than stimulated agricultural and industrial production” (Inikori 396). Politically, the high demand for labor in the Americas partnered with the incentive of profit resulted in battles between African groups that “led to increased slave-raiding and to more wars being fought for the express purpose of securing slaves” (Fage 393). Slaves were captured “through warfare, trickery, banditry, and kidnapping” in the interior and were transported to the coast where they were inspected, auctioned off, branded, and shipped across the Atlantic Ocean on the treacherous Middle Passage (Rodney, 231). Even native Africans participated in the slave trade as middlemen by gathering fellow Africans from the interior and dragging them to the coast for money. The Atlantic Slave Trade serves as an example of how ethnocentric beliefs played a debilitating role in Ghana’s history.
Today, Ghana continues to struggle against stereotypes that have developed due to ethnocentrism. Before my own journey across the Atlantic Ocean, I readily accepted some of these very stereotypes without questioning where the source of the information derived from. My time in Ghana has completely changed my perspective of these misconceptions and has awakened me to the dangerousness of the “us versus them” mentality.
A.K. Awedoba writes in Culture and Development in Africa that it is necessary to educate university students about Africa because of the “existence and persistence of negative perceptions and stereotypes about the continent and its people” (Awedoba 1). For example, individuals across the globe continue to believe that “Africans worship idols, engage in infanticide, sexual promiscuity, and a host of other deplorable acts and habits” (Awedoba 1). Before my departure for Ghana I was faced with multiple questions and statements that reflect the lack of knowledge Americans have for the continent of Africa. Friends asked me “will you be living in a mud hut in a village?” “Will you be safe with all the lions around?” My personal favorite questions were the ones pertaining to language. I cannot count the number of times I had to explain to a relative or friend that a sizable portion of the Ghanaian population communicates using English. However, not all of these thoughts were far off from what I had been wondering. A few of the key misconceptions I held before I came here relate to the diversity of Africa, safety, dress, and development.
 While I was still living in the United States, I often used the word Ghana interchangeably with Africa as if they were one and the same. According to Awedoba, “both Africans themselves and non-Africans have been guilty of what may be called the fallacy of homogeneity” (Awedoba 21). For example, in the United States, Americans have a tendency to talk about the continent of Africa as if it is one country. Further, people tend to generalize what the culture is like as well as the climate. However, I have discovered that not only is Africa diverse, but Ghana itself is extremely complex. Although it is difficult to provide a definitive number, scholars have stated that there are between forty-five to fifty different languages spoken in Ghana (Awedoba 65). The vast number of languages reflects the even larger number of ethnic groups that span through the ten regions of Ghana. As a result, Ghana is composed of multiple cultures that widely differ from one another. Thus, the belief in homogeny throughout Africa has completely been discounted through my experiences of the substantial diversity in Ghana.      
One of the greatest concerns that my parents held about my adventures in Ghana was safety. Grandpa Larry would send me emails about the disruptions in the Ivory Coast and often cited this violence as a reason for why I should switch my program. Also, my father sat me down in a chair and questioned me about crime rates and whether my light skin would make me a prime target for theft or violence. Sure, there is crime in Ghana. But isn’t there crime in every other country in the world? Just as in many other urban settings, crime is more prevalent in the capital of Accra than in rural settings. While my mind was focused on safety before I arrived in Ghana, my time in Legon has been composed of nothing but positive experiences thus far. The people are genuine, helpful, and incredibly hospitable. When I was at the Cape Coast Festival one woman grabbed my hand and said “Please hold your bag so you don’t get picked.” If anything, I feel like Ghanaians would work together to defend me if any harm were to come my way. I now question whether my parents were worried due to the fact that I was travelling in general, or if it was specifically because I was travelling in Africa. Either way, my experiences here have enabled me to spread the word back home that I honestly feel safer here than back in the States and that Ghanaians are some of the friendliest people I have ever come into contact with.
Displayed on the front cover of my travel book is a vibrantly dressed African woman with a red headdress on. Filling the pages of my photography book documenting Ghanaian life are images of festivals and weddings where all of the participants are wearing traditional African wear. Naturally, I was quite surprised when I found myself on the University of Ghana campus surrounded by individuals wearing blue jeans, tight tank tops, and collared shirts. True, Ghanaians do wear African apparel on Fridays and some sport it during the week, but I was shocked to discover that the younger generations dress almost exactly the same as American college students. At one point in the orientation I asked one of our student guides where he purchased his clothes from. I was astonished to learn that he has purchased most of his clothes from the United States and had them shipped overseas. Another female student guide confirmed his statement. Why could this be? I came to the conclusion that globalization has led to the adoption of Western styles of dress in Ghana. This proves that Ghana is more connected to the global web than I ever anticipated. Thus, opposed to the images that accompanied the information I was reading on Ghana that showed Ghanaians in purely traditional dress, I have learned that many Ghanaians dress in Western styles similar to people in the United States.
One of the final areas where I had held misconceptions of Ghana is development. Honestly, before travelling overseas I knew very little about the infrastructure of Ghana and therefore had a hard time imagining what to expect. When we flew into Accra airport the view from my window awakened me to the notion that Ghana has come a long way since its march to independence in 1957. In other words, Ghana is far more developed than I ever anticipated. There are two sides to this story, however. Initially, I was surprised at the level of development because Accra has high rise buildings and the streets are bustling with Hondas, Mercedes, and automobiles similar to those in America. The International Students Hostel that I was originally provided accommodations in not only had running water and electricity, but also access to the Internet. Both the young and old walk around using cell phones- iphones seem to be equally popular in Ghana as in the United States. Yet, when our University of California group travelled to other cities, such as Kumasi and the Cape Coast, I started to see the gap between urban areas and the rural countryside. It became quite apparent that the villages and towns between cities live a slower paced life with less of the luxuries of the cities. I feel that the poverty I saw outside of the cities was more what I expected for the entirety of Ghana. However, once again I realized that Ghana is a country full of complexities and diverse lifestyles. Either way, I feel that Ghana is more developed than I anticipated as well as more connected to the global network.
The orientation lecture on ethnocentrism, the reading of Culture and Development in Africa, and my firsthand experiences in Ghana awakened me to the problems of how Westerners, including myself, view Africa. Historic and modern Westerners impose “Western models and blue prints for development on African peoples without discrimination and regardless of the suitability of these models to the experiences of the peoples on the receiving end.” (Awedoba 2) I have discovered that to equate development with Westernization is a grave mistake. What works in the Western world may not be fitting in Ghana because it is a different country with its own unique cultures. Further, distinctions used in America between “‘developed’, ‘developing’, ‘undeveloped’, ‘under-developed’ as applied to nations and regions of the world remain questionable and may be justly compared to earlier distinctions between ‘civilized’, ‘uncivilized’, ‘primitive’, ‘barbarian’, ‘savage’”  used in the past (Awedoba 15). In fact, every country is still developing in one regard or another but it may be at a different speed or along a unique path. Instead of using an ethnocentric mode of thinking, people should switch to an ethnorelative perspective when viewing a new culture. According to this model, an individual should take in the entirety of a culture, including both positive and negative aspects. By using this mentality I feel that I have been able to submerge myself in the Ghanaian culture more fully and discover that in order to progress as a nation, Ghana must reexamine and apply “indigenous ideas in the search for solutions to contemporary problems,” as well as seek methods that bridge the gap between the diverse peoples and cultures. Ghana is not a part of the Western world and viewing it in such a way blinds one to the complexity of the country.
Ethnocentrism played a prominent role in the history of Ghana as well as in the country’s current struggles with development. The Eurocentric belief in European superiority justified colonialism and the Atlantic Slave Trade. These processes stand as symbols of the destruction an ethnocentric mindset caused historically. Today, my own experiences in Ghana have highlighted how an ethnocentric view continues to dominate Western ideology. Stereotypes continue to plague the Western mind and destroy the reality of life in Africa. One major issue is the association between Westernization and development. Ghana is fully capable of developing using its own model that is suitable to the diverse population and culture. Unique solutions to problems could develop which might be shared in the global system. If humanity were to shift to an ethnorelative perspective, I feel that there would be less prejudice in the world and in its place, a major opportunity for positive cross cultural interactions between differing nations.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Merrymaking in the Cape Coast


By far this weekend was one of the most culturally enriching experiences I have had thus far in Ghana. On Friday afternoon half of the group boarded a bus to head to the Cape Coast Festival…here is a short description of it.

Fetu Afahye is a festival of the people of Oguaa traditional area which comprises Cape Coast and its neighboring villages such as Efutu which used to be the capital of the original state while Cape Coast (Oguaa) was a fishing village. Through trade with the Europeans, Cape Coast became the capital of Oguaa state, later the seat of government of the Gold Coast and now the regional capital of the Central Region of Ghana. The Festival starts the beginning of a new year. It is a six week celebration with multifaceted components; that is religious, economic, and political, gender, drama, art, music and dance among others. We were lucky enough to witness the climax of these festivities

Since I had class I didn’t get to go with the Thursday group and thus I ended up missing the night vigil as well as the slaughtering of the bull (which I was not too keen on witnessing anyways). When we arrived there was a little hotel fiasco that resulted in the group being split up into three different hotels. Ariel and I managed to be placed in what seemed like the presidential suite in the Cape Coast Hotel. We had a bed larger than any bed I have seen in the United States, a living room with a mini refrigerator, and YES we had a hot water heater..the first hot shower I have had in over a month. 

That night we walked to an overpriced eatery.My friend and I purchased a margarita pizza, a chicken sandwich, and popcorn which resulted in the most intense stomach ache of my life. Not wanting to miss any of the festivities, I hopped on the bus which dropped us off in the heart of the Cape Coast, right along the water and next to the slave castle. We walked to a bar which was blasting music which was literally twenty feet from the white walls and canons of the Cape Coast slave castle. We left within twenty minutes and went up to the town square. Setup in the open space was a raised stage with a dance competition occurring. It seemed like the whole population of the town was crowded in this space gazing at the stage and chanting in support of their favorite performer. Ghanaian dancers seem to defy gravity with their athletic dance moves. A Ghanaian observer told me that the competition would continue until sunrise. We ended up leaving the town square and heading to Oasis Resort- a location located on the beach with a tiki bar and dance floor. This place seemed to be an international haven but I was not feeling too well and it was freezing outside so I had my mind set on heading home. Typical though, I missed the 12AM shuttle and discovered I had to wait till 2AM for the next one. When I did make it home I got to get in the hot shower and all was well!

At 6AM the next morning we headed onto the bus in preparation for the procession of the chiefs. We stopped to get breakfast in town where I made friends with two three-year old boys who were fascinated by the peek-a-boo game I started with them. When the bus dropped us off in the next location we were approached by Ghanaians dressed in colorful outfits with white faced masks and they carried a broom with blonde hair attached. They would not leave us alone and when we did not offer money they made remarks about how the evil spirits would come after us. It’s funny because these exact costumed characters are the main photo on the back of my travel guide! Our group got a prime spot on the cement wall where we watched the pre-parade festivities unfold for the next two hours. Bands of Ghanaians danced through the streets. At one point women with sacred stools on their heads battled each other, ramming into one another. Our student guides explained that they were possessed as was evident through the sweat pouring off their whole body and the fierce look in their eyes. Men on stilts twenty feet up in the air walked through the crowd in colorful costumes. Then came the procession. Each chief was carried up high in a canoe-looking contraption. He was dressed in bright colored traditional attire and shaded by huge twirling umbrellas. Each chief was accompanied by his local people on the ground who danced and drummed as they walked. Some were followed by the queen mothers who were carried in the same manner. The Cape Coast chief definitely stole the show when he started tossing out little bottles of liquor. I couldn’t help but think about the reaction the American people would have if Obama started throwing alcohol out in a parade. I waved my hands trying to get his attention and when he saw the line of obrunis he looked right at me and gave me the “rock on” sign. How awesome is that? 

Just some funny facts about the festival:

1.      Many Ghanaians and even some of the men of distinction whipped out their cameras and started taking pictures of us, the foreigners! Video cameras came within several inches of my face multiple times.
2.     
           One Ghanaian dressed in red and carrying a machete got a little aggressive with us as we brushed past his performance without paying him attention. He shoved me backwards until the Ghanaians nearby yelled out “ehhhhh!” (the sound of foul play) and he let us pass.

3.      Since we were sitting in the same position for about 5 hours my scalp cooked so bad I looked like a lobster.


After the procession of the chiefs we walked ahead to the park where the chiefs were to meet and discuss political matters. Ariel and I spent our free time frolicking in the waves at the beach and then went got on the bus to head home and take a nap. Just so you understand the thickness of the crowd…it took us an hour and a half to get through the crowds back to our hotel which was only five minutes away. Our bus frequently had to stop for an impromptu dance performance in the middle of the street. Later we walked down to catch the bus…which ended up coming 2 hours late! Ghana time means nothing ever happens on time…but that is part of the beauty of the culture, things are just slower. We garbled down a meal Auntie Rose (our program leader) and her husband purchased for us at a restaurant by the beach- I ate my first salad in months! After dinner a few of us went to Goyle’s (the bar and pizza place from the night before) where there was a live band blasting music. I told my friends before we hit the dance floor that it was my goal to touch the head singer’s hand. It turned out to not be an issue whatsoever. Making my way to the front of the stage the head singer would grasp my hand and improvise the song with “obruni” and put the microphone up to my face (as if I could sing along when I hardly know any Fanti or Twi!). Our group ended up dancing the night away till 4AM and when we left, the festivities had by no means slowed down. I guess when Auntie Rose had explained that the merrymaking went all night she was not kidding. When we walked back to the hotel one of my friends fell in a five foot hole that was in the middle of the sidewalk but impossible to see in the dark- it has become the joke of the month. Cape Coast definitely turned out to be one of the most epic memories thus far!

Since the Cape Coast Festival:
1.       
     I have become a master at bucket showers because the water has almost been out for a solid two weeks.
2.       
     I have successfully transitioned to sachet water…water that comes in plastic bags and is a symbol of my stomachs adjustment to the same water Ghanaians drink!
3.       
     I continue to eat a loaf of bread a day.
4.       
     I have now become pretty close with the two Ghanaian girls who live underneath me. They are twins and their names are Jenny and Jennifer. Somehow our relationship has developed around food. The first night I met them they ended up whipping Ariel and I a huge portion of our favorite Ghanaian snacks- fried plantains and fried yams. They always help us make our own dishes a little better by adding spices and vegetables.

Thursday, September 1, 2011


Life in Ghana has started to slow down as I have settled into a normal routine at the University. All of my classes are now in full swing and I have the homework to prove it. Yet I continue to challenge myself to step outside of my box and try new things.

On Saturday, two of my friends and I hopped on a tro-tro headed for Madina market. The cost of the ride was 30 peswa- which is literally about twenty cents in the US. The ride was comfortable and not too crowded and we made it to the market in fifteen minutes. The market was absolutely crazy. Vendors lined up as far as the eye could see, women carrying items for sale on their head pushed past the masses of people walking through skinny dirt pathways. Just a clarification: vendors does not by any means imply that there are buildings or shops. A vendor at the Madina market consists of a small plot of dirt in which the owner lays all their items for sale either on a blanket on the ground or on a small table. While my two friends “shopped till they dropped” I scouted for the perfect African dress. I ended up purchasing a bright blue African print dress for twenty cedis. The print has dark African figures with bowls on their head intertwined with bright yellow baskets and some peacocks (I know a little hard to picture but it is beautiful!). At one point I could have sworn I felt someone tugging on my bag but I had followed all guidelines and brought a zipped up bag that I could keep my eye on. Unfortunately when one of my friends went to buy a dress she looked at me with wide eyes and said “where is my wallet?” Turns out she got pickpocketed in all the bustle of the market. Even the old market ladies said “Obruni! You get picked? You be careful, no put money in bag, hide in shirt or sock!” So at that point our moods had shifted but we still had to pick clothes up that my roommate had designed with a local seamstress. The seamstress’ house was similar to any in the US. Airconditioned with white tiles and family photographs adorning the walls. We were asked to remove our shoes as we entered the home which makes sense when I reflect because the place was clean of any speck of dirt. The seamstress did an incredible job on my friends clothes and I look forward to finding some fabric and getting some items made for myself one day.

After waking up at 5AM once again on Sunday, my roommate and I decided it was our time to check out church. Ariel (my roommate) had previously seen flyers for a church with a white pastor and she was obsessed with the idea of checking it out. So we took a taxi to the Mensvic Palace Hotel, the location of the Agape House New Testament Church we were to attend. When we walked into the hotel I almost forgot I was in Ghana because it resembled an upscale Marriot hotel with air conditioning and bathrooms that actually had toilet paper and soap! We were pretty hesitant when we walked into the large banquet room with hundreds of chairs lined up. All of the African people were dressed beyond nice- it basically looks like they are attending a wedding but they are wearing Africanwear- all African printed clothing. Thankfully, Ariel and I had stepped up our game and worn long dresses. As expected we were escorted to the very front of the church while the eyes of the Ghanaians watched our every move. Surprisingly, a few other foreigners shuffled in as we waited and gave us an acknowledging nod. Worship was incredible! Onstage was a live band and choir who danced the morning away. The songs were all upbeat and the crowd mimicked the drumming beat with the clap of their hands and the sway of their hips. In the middle of worship, a tall white guy walked in and started hopping up and down to the beat- definitely not an African style of dance. I figured that this must be the pastor. After some slower songs, this same guy walked up and took hold of the microphone introducing himself as the senior pastor…his name is Reverend Richard C. Whitcomb. He told all newcomers to stand up for an “Agape welcome.” The sermon was extremely interesting, focusing on the topic of relationships- it also helped because we had little fill in the blank cards like back at home. At one point he called up a family who was in mourning following the death of one of the fathers. This Ghanaian family, consisting of around 40 members, walked up in the traditional black, white, and red cloth worn in the traditional manner. Also, the Reverend called up 20 parents of adorable African babies who participated in a  “dedication” ceremony. The Agape Church believes that baptism should wait until children are old enough to decide that they want to follow Christ. Whatever preconceived notions I had about this Reverend before I walked into the church, he completely blew me out of the water and my views had drastically changed when I left. I was surprised to learn that Reverend Whitcomb has lived in Africa for half his life. He has 6 children, 2 were born in the US, 2 born in Nigeria, and 2 born in Ghana. The crowd erupted in laughter when he described how he has “two white Nigerian babies.” One of the most fascinating parts about Reverend Whitcomb is that he could speak a perfect Ghanaian accent and did so through most of his sermon. I assume this was to bridge the language gap but I was very surprised at how knowledgeable he is in general about Ghanaian culture. Ariel and I attended the first-timers meeting where we were given drinks and information about the church. I definitely think I will be attending more often!

I was supposed to meet with my advisor for my special study project on Friday morning. When I called him he said “I am in a meeting and will call you after.” At 4PM I assumed we weren’t meeting…until my phone rang and my advisor, Jasper, said “I am downstairs.” I gathered my things and ran across campus to the International Hostel, the dorm he thought I resided at. After discussing my project he explained that he wanted to show me the teaching site. So we drove to the house I will be teaching at in Madina. We had some extremely interesting conversations on our drive. Jasper works for an NGO that is raising awareness about AIDS in the Legon area. He asked me about how AIDS infected persons are perceived in America and explained how in Africa people with AIDS become social outcasts because people believe it to be contagious purely by shaking hands. I talked to him about how crazy the driving is in Ghana and he could not comprehend how orderly the highways are back in the US. He laughed and explained how he misses Britain (where he got his Masters) because he liked riding in the “underground tube.” One of the most ironic instances is when I asked him “if you could visit any country where would you go?” What was his answer? FINLAND! I could not believe it..usually my friends in America haven’t even heard of Finland! He explained that he met the nicest Finnish man while in Britain and he wants to visit him and see the country where the “days are dark for a long time and light for a long time.” I was dying with laughter inside. The teaching site is perfect and I finally have the details together to start teaching in a week.

CLASS:

I can barely understand anything in my Ghanaian History class. The older Ghanaian woman speaks very fast and has a thick accent. I never catch her jokes and when the whole class starts laughing at her witty comments I give a little confused smile which makes the Ghanaians closest to me laugh even harder.

I had my Black Diaspora class again. This time my American female professor was accompanied by the Head of the History Department. He lectured us for almost 2 hours on how we are a disgrace to the University and a disgrace to the country of Ghana. He made one Ghanaian boy who was texting stand up and come to the front of the class, write his name on the board and publicly humiliate him in front of his classmates. He followed by kicking him out of the class and calling him an embarrassment. The environment was super intense and now each one of the 200 students in our class have to write an apology letter to our professor…Great.

Sorry for the long update but there are a lot of little things going on here. On Friday I am heading back to the Cape Coast for the Cape Coast Festival where I will get to see the ritual of a cow being sacrificed (although my face will be hidden) so stay tuned!