Obama's Children

5 AM is not my ideal wakeup time. But it is what had to be done in order to make the four hour drive to Wli Waterfall. This weekend our EAP group teamed up with the CSU kids and headed out to one of the ten regions of Ghana- the Volta Region. The drive was pretty long but as always I found entertainment in our Ghanaian student guides. Pamela, the Ghanaian girl sitting next to me, whipped out her phone and started playing the latest Ghanaian hits while Kojo and Jyimah bobbed their heads to the beat. When we arrived at the starting point for the hike up to the waterfall, we were first fed lunch from “Tasty Treats”- basically we ate rice. When Ghanaians tell you that we will be “hiking” what they really mean is taking a stroll. The mini hike was full of photo opportunities as we trekked through the cleared path that was surrounded by lush green plants and trees. At several places you could peak through the greenery and view huge green mountains that resemble Hawaiian postcard images. When we reached the waterfall I was in complete awe. I thought that Wli waterfall was going to be a hyped up tourist spot but this waterfall was point blank, one of the most magnificent I have ever seen (worth looking up on Google images). Although I was wearing my swimsuit, I was hesitant to swim but I wasn’t the first one to make the decision to take the plunge but once one member of our group took the dive, I decided “Hey, I’m in Ghana” and followed their lead. So our American group stripped down and dove in, becoming the public spectacle for all the tourists. It definitely crossed my mind that it is an American tendency to think nature is around for us to enjoy- and I felt a little guilty as we ruined the peaceful water below. However, I have also heard that most Ghanaians can’t swim, so I chose the second reason for why the Africans standing around were not swimming. The power of the waterfall hitting the pool of water below was so strong it created a mist that was so powerful that I could not open my eyes despite standing quite a distance away from the striking center. Plus, one of the guides said not to get to close to the center because A. you can get pushed under by the force and B. there is sinking sand. So in order to make my mom proud, I followed the rules. At one point, my roommate tapped me and said “can you believe this?” I cranked my head all the way back so I was practically looking straight up in order to see the top of the waterfall, closed my eyes and took a deep breath in and thought about the strength of nature. When we dried off after getting out of the water, the sky went dark. I looked up only to see bats, bats, and more BATS- so many that the sunlight was blocked. Too bad I didn’t have my camera as evidence.

When our group found out that we were not going to have time to go to the monkey sanctuary, a few of us had a moment of spontaneity and decided to stay the night. As the bus drove away with the majority of our group on its way homebound to Accra, it hit me “what did I get myself into?” Thirteen of us squished into a bed of a white truck and were escorted around the town of Ho Hoy in a mad hunt for a hostel.  The moment seemed so surreal- despite being packed in like sardines and bobbing around on a terribly paved dirt road in an incredibly uncomfortable position, the mood was full of optimism. After scouting out 5 or so hostels we settled on one just outside of the town. Eleven of the girls were to stay in one room with two beds and the two boys were placed in another room. Random story: At one of the prospective hostels, an older security guard approached us while we were chilling in the bed of the truck and asked where we were from. When we answered the United States, he got a huge smile and said, “You are welcome Obama’s children!”

The whole “Obama’s children” thing was a little too ironic because it was one of the girl in our programs birthday and for her big 21^st we ended up at a bar and restaurant that was named none other than “Obama’s,” with an American flag in its logo. Obama’s ended up being an incredibly expensive bar with only fried rice and pizza on the menu for a ridiculous price. So I hit the street and found an egg sandwich stand for the US equivalent of sixty cents. It was a fun night but I headed back to the hostel early to get some rest for the next day. I slept in a bed with six girls until I decided that I was so cramped that I ended up on the floor using wet towels as blankets. 

The next morning we woke up bright and early at 6AM with the intentions of going to the monkey sanctuary…until we realized it was Sunday and the sanctuary was a 2 hour drive out of our way. Since Sundays basically mean that nobody is working, we figured it was in our best interest to head back to Accra. So we bought egg sandwiches again and loaded up a tro-tro for our journey back to Accra. Some of us had mini panic attacks because we have been instructed not to take tro-tros long distances because of their unreliable nature, but there were no buses running on this day so I was forced to jump aboard. Tro-tros are absolutely insane! Basically, they are vans holding on by a thread, driven by strangers who maneuver the bumpy dirt roads like racecar drivers. They are cheap methods of transportation but they stuff people in and drive like they are invincible. Being in a tro-tro made the beauty of the scenery come alive so much more than the air conditioned bus we had been chauffeured around in previously. Finally, I felt like I was out on my own adventuring through Africa. I survived my first tro-tro ride and made it back to Legon in record time…but when I got home I crashed with exhaustion and slept till the next morning.

Random stories:

Despite schools starting a week ago, I have only had one actual lecture and my music and dance classes. What’s funny is the only class I did have, European history, was taught by an American professor who kept making jokes about American football- the Ghanaian students seemed incredibly lost.

The format of my classes is that I only have each class once a week for 2 hour lectures. Most of the classes are dictated using the British style of education and students are expected to teach themselves.

My xylophone class is intense! Even though I signed up for Music 013, which is the beginning class, I was placed with students who have been playing for ten years. Instead of helping me learn the basics, the teacher (who is super cool) expects me to keep up with the musical geniuses. It is humiliating being pointed out in class enough as it is being a foreigner but considering I am not musically inclined, I get called out all the time as the “slow one” who needs to practice. So my experiences in xylo have left me with private lessons twice a week with the teacher who thinks my name is extremely funny because he has read the book Heidi. I still consistently get asked to recite something German or Swiss.

Food wise, I have decided to name myself a “carbovore.” All I eat are carbs. Rice, bread, beans, pineapple, mango, red-red, plantains, bananas, and water make up my diet. I recently discovered yogurt in a cup- I can’t decide if it is safe to experiment with. I bought cooking gear with some of the other girls and hope to try and even out my diet ASAP.

Tonight I just got back from my history class titled The Black Diaspora. When I walked in, I immediately noticed that I once again had another foreign teacher. The class was absolutely chaotic: my teacher, a fresh out of grad school white American woman, was eaten alive by the Ghanaian students. As she tried to read through the syllabus, a roar from the audience made it impossible for her to speak. My best guess is that they were upset that a white American is teaching a class on the Black Diaspora. Nonetheless, my professor almost broke down in tears as she said “I have never been treated in such a horrible manner.” In the next two minutes she gathered her papers and walked out. She left a number of copies on the table up front and the Ghanaian students pounced on them. Some students grabbed ten or so copies, holding them up and attempting to sell them for five cedis (like 3 US dollars). I ended up leaving with a deer-in-the-headlights look and without the required reading for the next week. I just don’t know if this professor is going to be able to gain the respect of the Ghanaian students now that she stormed out…I will keep you posted.

Canopy Bridges and Cape Coast

This morning I woke up to the sounds of worship outside my room. Not just the sound of a preacher or a soft hum of singing, it was so loud and intense our room started shaking. Ghanaians sure know how to do church. They were howling, clapping, and yelling “praise the lord” to the sound of drums. It was just so lively I couldn’t help but think America might be able to learn something from them. However, the biggest problem with the devoutness of Ghanaians on Sundays is that there is no place for international students to eat.

Two days ago was the trip to Kakum National Park and Elmina Castle. The day was a complete rollercoaster of emotions. Kakum was hands down one of the most beautiful forests I have ever seen. We walked across the canopy rope bridges that extended over the treetops of vast stretches of the forest. The trees were so thick that you could not see the ground so all you could see into the distance was a carpet of greenery. It was gorgeous. There is no way anyone afraid of heights (aka mom and Kyle) could have walked across the creaking bridge that had some scary thin and fraying pieces of ropes holding up the bridge..like in Indiana Jones movies!, with any peace of mind. One more point, I was a little surprised that Ghana appreciated and recognized the importance of nature enough to protect such a beautiful forest. At the end of the trail, a vendor sold honey straight out of the forest and I’m sure you all know I love honey. It was honestly the most delicious honey I’ve tasted, minus the dirt mixed in..true organic produce! 

Following the hike, we ate lunch at a little eatery where I got a Coke (which is always contained in a cold glass bottle-old fashion style) and a variety of African foods. The lady who cooked was gracious enough to include a side of French fries which don’t taste like American French fries probably because of the oil used. The other dishes included fried rice, fried plantains, noodles with a SPICY red sauce, chicken, red red (beans, lentils, sometimes avocado, black-eyed peas). Very satisfying meal.

When we arrived at Elmina Castle, the mood completely shifted. The white walled castle, located right on the coast of the Cape Coast was founded by the Portuguese and later handed off to the Dutch as a trading post and place for missionaries to stay and spread the word of god. I surprised myself by discovering how emotionally invested I was in the experience- I guess this was one of the reasons I came to Ghana. It was just so hard to place myself there and realize it was at this EXACT spot that humans performed such a horrendous act. When we entered the dark dungeons, a stench so strong it made your eyes water overwhelmed your senses. It was in these dark cells that Africans were packed like animals with very little ventilation. They were beaten, raped, killed, exposed to illness all around, and if they survived this treatment, they were eventually shipped off on the Middle Passage. I thought about the Black Diaspora and how black people can be found in all corners of the world because of the Transatlantic slave trade (and other processes for that matter). I also questioned how such a process led to the spread of Christianity in Africa and its dominance today in Ghana- it is strange to think about how the suppressed have come to accept the religion of their suppressors.  

The student guides told our group before we entered that we cannot blame ourselves for what happened in the past and that regardless of skin color, we are all one. However, I could not help but feel guilty because of my skin color as I walked through the castle. Was I entitled to feel so emotional? Were the African people also touring the castle blaming me for what happened?...the list goes on. I came to the conclusion that I was blessed to have witnessed such a historical site because I was there to learn from the mistakes of humans in the past and to prevent further crimes against humanity from occurring.

On a lighter note, I went to the mall to try and buy a camera but the cheapest one was 400 cedis which is absolutely ridiculous. And my computer broke. No bueno. I did buy groceries- bananas, peanut butter, and bread to help me survive the lack of nutrients in my diet. I spotted nutella on the shelf but knew my mom would kill me if I purchased such an item in Africa for around ten US dollars. I’m now starting to feel like I can navigate my way around the city, bargaining and riding on tro-tros and taxis. School started today yet I still don’t know when or where my classes are… but this is Ghana and things don’t run like in America. I had my first lecture, but it didn’t happen. I waited in class for almost an hour but the teacher never showed up. Oh and I spent the first half of my day at the hospital again, only to find out that I could get no medicinal treatment…I’m just praying I never get seriously ill because I don’t know what I would do! Now I am off to trek across campus to meet my friends who live in the International Students Hostel to eat at a café that has spaghetti!      

Reggae on the Beach

So, the last few days have been full of craziness. I have finally moved into my new dorm, Volta Hall, which is incredibly beautiful. Basically, I live in a little bungalow that looks out on a courtyard of greenery and unbelievable architecture. Ariel and I redecorated our room so that we turned the study room into our bedroom which leaves us with a living room for hanging out with people. We bought colorful African cloth which now hangs on our wall and has made the room our own.

Registering for classes has been extremely hectic. Basically, you have to walk to each department to find out what classes are offered. However, there is no timetable for when these classes actually are, so basically you register for classes without knowing if they will conflict or where the lectures will even be located. When I went to the History department on my day for registration, the guy at the table told me that I could not register and to come back “maybe tomorrow or the next day.” According to his statement, I would be registering for my classes on the first day of class which just doesn’t make any sense. It is quite hard to explain. Well I will tell you what I am going to sign up for but I probably won’t be in half of these. 1. History of Ghana up to 1500 2. History of the Black Diaspora 3. History of Colonial Intervention in Ghana 4. Intro to Drumming 5. Traditional African Dance 6. Xylophone 7. Twi  

Last night was most definitely the best night I have had here in Ghana. A couple of the other EAP kids and I went to “Reggae on the Beach,” which was unreal. Five of us packed in a taxi and headed out to the beach at 11PM or so. Since we had been previously warned about the corruption in the police force, I was not surprised when our taxi got flagged down at a police checkpoint. We had been told that in this situation, it is better to just pay the policeman off than fight him to let us go. The policeman (with an impressive gun) made our driver get out of the car and they got in an argument and when he got in the car we were forced to pay a couple cedis to continue on our way. When we got to the beach, the music was blasting. I wish I could paint the picture for everyone because the environment was that cool but it is impossible. Up on a platform was a huge tiki bar where there was a bar, speakers, and pool tables. Also on the raised platform out in the open air was a dance floor and chairs all over to sit and talk. When you walk off the platform a couple steps, you are instantly on the beach. Rastafarians roamed the sand and constantly wanted to talk to the obruni (white foreigner). People stood socializing on the beach under the moonlight while others sat in chairs that surrounded mini fires. It was just a really lively place to be. When we left the beach, I bought a chicken as a form of bribery to get back into my dorm. Before we left, the porters told us they would not let us in unless we brought them a gift. When we got back to Volta Hall, the porter came and unlocked the big iron door and gave me a huge grin when he saw the chicken I brought…successful night! 

Tomorrow I have to wake up at 6:00 am to go on another adventure. We are going to Kakum National Park where we will be hiking and crossing the canopy rope bridges (what you see in movies!) Also, we will be touring the Elmina Slave Castle which will be interesting but also an emotional experience. Unfortunately I can’t take any pictures because my camera is broken but I will keep you posted.

Goodnight!

Kumasi AND A Series of Unfortunate Events

So the past week has been some of the best days and the worst days. A couple days ago we embarked on an adventure to Kumasi. The drive took around 5 hours but it was most definitely worth it. We visited the original kente cloth factory (a famous type of cloth in Ghana) as well as learned how to stamp cloth with adinkra symbols. The next day we visited the Asantehene's palace (the king of the Asante region) and traveled to one of the most beautiful lakes ever and took a canoe tour. At the lake the locals climbed coconut trees and brought us each our own coconut for free! That night we checked out a local bar which once again, played purely American music. The next day we scoped out the outdoor markets and did a little bargaining. I bought a pair of earrings for 1 cedi (about 75 US cents) and everyone wanted to hear about how amazing California was. That night it was pouring rain but me and a couple of my friends were so hungry we decided to cross a crazy busy street in the pouring rain to buy some snacks. The closest we could get to chocolate was vanilla wafers. We played cards all night in our hotel rooms and all I could think about was how our EAP group had become a family in such short time.

Since we have been home, I have had some free time. Besides going to the hospital, I have been eating all my meals at either the night market or at the cafe in ISH. Rice and beans are a staple, as well as omelettes and their delicious rolls.

A group of us went to the mall, which looked like any other mall but the prices were ridiculously expensive. Goodluck getting a pair of shoes for under seventy dollars!

At the Bush Canteen (an outdoor market on campus) I saw a dog (not a stray dog) and gasped. The owner looked over at me and said "you know a person isn't a Ghanaian when they are happy to see a dog." I have learned over the last week that Ghanaians are dead afraid of dogs. The couple that owned the dog were from Canada and the man is a Philosophy professor at University of Ghana. It was refreshing to speak with people without a thick accent.

Now for the bad stuff....

When we got back from Kumasi, Ariel (my roommate) and I were supposed to move into our permanent rooms. But as usual, things didn't go as planned. We ended up with 8 other girls being placed in an all male Ghanaian dorm for one week, until our rooms in Volta are finished. This means there are constantly men hissing at me as I walk across the courtyard and yelling at me from balconies...but at least they are being friendly. And to top it off, I am woken up at 5:45 in the morning everyday to the sound of banging under my room since our part of the building is under construction.

When I was at the bar in Kumasi, I noticed some red bumps forming on my hand. I thought "oh man a mosquito must have just had a feast." But the next day it got worse and with each day it spread to more parts of my body. Luckily there were two other people in the group with the same thing. So on my first day off (I didn't get to sleep it) I had to go to the hospital and I spent a whole half day there. The hospital was pure chaos and nobody could seem to tell me where to go. To spare you the details, I finally saw a doctor (who told all 3 of us that we had some different problem) and I went to get my prescription...but they were out of 2 of the drugs I needed. Eventually it all worked out and I am on 4 different antibiotics to heal this little sucker.

Oh and I did all of my laundry today which took 2 hours and it still is drying. Boy oh boy do I miss washing machines, dryers, and my mom!

My next 3 days consist of international students orientation. I will get to move into my permanent dorm, meet all of the international kids, and register for classes.

REGARDLESS of the bumps in the road, the journey continues to be a blast and I can't wait to start classes and begin to travel on my own!

Awkwaaba!!

Guess who FINALLY discovered a means of communication!!! Over a week after arriving in Ghana, I was able to purchase an Internet card that will last me an hour. So no judgment for the chaotic thoughts and terrible grammar that will follow.

The flight to Ghana was long but quite entertaining. The airplane food was surprisingly delicious and I got to sit next to a girl in my program (who is now my roommate) on the plane. The majority of the plane was composed of Africans, especially Ghanaians and Nigerians, who were dressed exceptionally well. When we arrived in Ghana we walked off onto the middle of a plane lane and walked into a building where we went through customs. As expected I could barely understand a word the customs official was saying. When I got my bags and met the student guides (who I also had trouble understanding) a nice man took my bags from me...little did I know he would soon request 20 dollars for pushing my bag one hundred feet or so. I slipped him a five and got on the bus. We sang songs on the bus and arrived at our home for the next three weeks, the International Student Hostel or ISH. They fed us and we did some icebreakers and went to bed to sleep off the jetlag..over two days of traveling and I was exhausted.

Since I am running out of time I will write random facts for you all.
-I pass a monkey that is tied to a leash everyday on my way to breakfast
-The food is drastically different than home, very spicy, but I'm starting to like it.
-The campus is three times the size of UCSB.
- I visited the most beautiful white sand beach I have ever been to in my life!
-I sleep under a mosquito net every night but have yet to see a mosquito...although I have several bites
-We have been taking dance classes every night as well as drumming and I have never sweated so much in my life. Ghanaians can sure dance!
-We traveled into Accra, the capital of Ghana, and the streets are bustling and lively. Women walk in the middle of the road selling all sorts of items which they carry on top of their heads.
- I am learning to speak Twi which is super fun, especially when bargaining at the night markets
- The fruit is the best thing I have tasted EVER!!! Mango and pineapple are at the top of the list.
-The past two days we have been at a "Roundtable" listening to lectures and presenting information we have learned from important professors and officials from across the land.
-Tomorrow I am leaving for a 3 day trip to Kumasi where we will be visiting the kings palace.
- I LOVE my group! I have made friends way quicker than I ever would have expected. Everyone is so adventurous and so outgoing. My roommate is incredible, we hit it off instantly and have been doing a lot together.
-The Ghanaian student guides were shy at first but have warmed up and we sit outside at night laughing and laughing.
- We are unable to drink the water so we drink bottled water. The showers are always cold and the electricity has gone out a couple times since we have been here, making for some interesting memories.
- The weather is surprisingly cooler because it is the rainy season. It is mostly overcast, except for when we went to the beach and I got the most epic sunburn because my malaria pills make me more susceptible to burns.
-We went to a Ghanaian club. They played all American music and everyone stared at us but by the end of the night we made some new friends.
-Flip flops are completely unacceptable to wear, you will not be allowed to enter restaurants.
-Ghanaians dress so much nicer than Americans, we look like slobs in comparison. Even when it is hot they wear nice slacks and button shirts and the girls look very classy.
-Whenever we drive on the bus Ghanaians stop and turn and wave.
-I wake up at 5:30AM almost everyday and go to bed at 11PM- long days.
-Deep ditches line the street so you really have to watch where you are going. And at night these ditches contain millions of frogs.

That is all I can think of right now. But, as my dad always asks, on a scale of 1 to 10 how much fun are you having....an 11!!! It has only been a week and I am having the time of my life. I have already made friends that I can't imagine living without.

At this point, I am looking forward to the end of orientation. My roommate and I were selected to live in Volta Hall, an all woman's dorm located in the heart of the campus with a beautiful courtyard. Although we are sad to split up from the rest of the group, we are excited to be submerged in the culture.

So I am off to Kumasi and will do my best to find Internet in a week or so!!